Johnson Reel Collectors Assn. (J.R.C.A.) since 10/10/14
Johnson Century Models - Reels that changed a Nations Fishing => Model 100B (1963-1979) => Topic started by: Brad Alexander on March 11, 2017, 07:52:55 PM
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I bought a 100B reel new in probably '76 or '77. I've used it a lot over the years but it's been a while since last used and it felt a little gummy so I decided to service it. It seems in very good condition except for the pinion gear is worn. I would like to get the part or just buy another one off e-bay or something. I really like the reel since it's the only closed faced spinning reel I've ever seen that can be used under-rod, right crank. Totally universal! Only ultralight trigger spins operate that way and most of them seem to be pretty cheap reels.
I was glad to see quite a few out there on e-bay. I should probably buy a couple and have a spare and a parts donor. Do all the 100B's have the same internal parts?
Any advice is appreciated.
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Hi, Brad! I have a 100B with a similar problem, worn pinion gear. Just a few hours ago, I had a talk with Chad B., a fellow member, who pointed out that 100B's have two different pinion/crank gear ratios. One setup has a 12-tooth pinion, 35-tooth crank gear, the other has a 16-tooth pinion, 45-tooth crank gear. Both Chad B. and Al (OCauto)may have gear sets in both ratios, I believe. Both of us will have to take our 100B's apart and count gear teeth. Probably better be cold sober to do it!
Skip
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Hey, Brad1 I just got off the phone with site-owner, Al Stover. We discovered a glitch with the Personal Message system, where members can talk privately. Anyhow. Al's working on that problem and also talking about sending me several 100B parts reels. Be patient, and maybe we can come up with gear sets for both of our reels. It sounds like you need a gear set for a 1974-79 100B and I need a gear set for a 62-73 100B, so let's see what shakes out.
Skip
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Skip,
Thanks for the help. Let me know what you find out. I was afraid there might be some subtle, or not so subtle, differences. Glad to have some experts out there!
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Will do, Brad. I counted teeth on my 100B, crank gear has 35, so mine's a 12/35 reel. Waiting to see what shows up in the mail box.
Skip
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The other difference is that the earlier 100Bs (sculpted thumb button and handle) had steel "permaloy" gears, while the last ones had zinc diecast gears. In my experience the later diecast gears are quieter and smoother, but don't wear as long. A complete set will interchange between the models, but I wouldn't mix and match between the steel and the diecast pinions and gears.
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Good point, Patrick...thanks! ;D
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Thanks for the input. Just took mine apart and counted. It is a 16/45. Let me know if any parts become available.
Again thanks for the information.
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You're very welcome, Brad! I'll keep you posted.
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Hey, Brad, I got two sets of 12/35 gears in the mail from our friend Chad B.! Have you found a 16/45 gear set for your reel yet?
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Skip
Do you know of any other reels that were produced with different gear teeth/ratios? Something else to watch out for eh?
Thanks
Gary
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Hi, Gary! I'm not aware of any differing gear ratios in the Johnson models, but that doesn't mean they don't exist. Johnson seemed to make various changes during the production run of many models, kind of like Volkswagen cars, so it's always a bit of a crapshoot as to what you have in your hand.
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Century's had two different gear sets the 12/35 and 16/45. I can't remember which came first at this time.
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Not sure if this is something you guys have run into. Probably so since I'm the rookie of the group. But just so it's documented for those people that might wander by looking for info.
I received a Century 100B that had excessive end play in the handle/crank shaft. The shaft and gear are two separate pieces. Each piece is splined and then pressed together. So all I had to do was gently tap the shaft further into the gear. Gently and slowly being the key phrases. I kept doing that and then rechecking the end play until I got it where I wanted it.
Not sure how it would end up with the end play. Dropped maybe?
Please add any thoughts you guys might have
Gary
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Great fix, Gary....thanks for the tip!
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Have to walk back my statement on the crankshaft adjustment, slightly.
I am playing with a Century 40th Anniversary reel this morning. Appears that at some point they started to machine a shoulder on the shaft. So all you can do is make sure the shaft is fully seated into the gear.
The 40th I am working on has to much side play, in my opinion. Which is why I looked at it. So on these your stuck with what the engineers came up with.
Have a great day
Gary
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Ran into another crank shaft/gear that had too much end play. So I took a couple of pictures to show what I ran into.
The previous owner had installed a washer between the handle and the side plate.
First picture shows the shoulder of the shaft extending out past the side plate bearing.
Second picture shows the shaft is recessed back into the gear, to some extent.
Third picture shows the splines on the shaft. They are visible here. I assume they would be hiddne if the shaft was fulled seated into the gear.
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Kind of makes you wonder if it came from the factory that way or an owner messed with it. I would say splines should not be that visible. I have had to pound a few in myself like you have had to tightening them up a bit.
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i don't know why anyone would want to mess with the gear seating unless the gear head was removed from a 120A which used the same gear as 100 A but the shaft is very slightly longer on the 120 than the 100. i have a 100A that i did this with but still shaft has to be properly seated in the gear. I have found shims in many 100's and 110's. i guess it helps with drive train slop.
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I was looking at some older discussions.
Thought I would mention, I believe the 16 tooth pinion gears wear much quicker than the 12 tooth versions. I've seen a bunch of the 16 tooth pinion gears with stripped teeth.
Probably due to more shallow teeth engagement
Gary
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I was changing out a badly worn pinion gear today and stumbled onto something interesting.
Turns out, the OEM plastic spring retaining ring sometimes used to hold the drive shaft spring in place will just slip inside of a 3/16" nut driver. The shafts on nut drivers are hollowed out. Turns out that will slip over the end and length of the drive shaft also.
So, I slipped the plastic ring into the nut driver and just pressed down until it snapped into place. It's the easiest method I've found to install one of those rings.
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Wow Gary, never thought of it. Thanks for the advise. Wonder if a deep socket would work also ? Now figure out how to remove and put back on, the metal retaining ring easy ! Bet I've lost a half a dozen springs and metal retainer rings. A couple fly tying pliers work the best for me. It's awkward though, a tool would be nice. I've tried a heat gun to loosen those plastic rings, to remove them. That can get out control fast. Dipping it in hot water might work.
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Anything with a hollow center and where the hole in the center is slightly larger than than diameter of the drive shaft would work.