Author Topic: 110-A picture  (Read 2132 times)

salmonfishing

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110-A picture
« on: February 02, 2017, 11:38:55 AM »
Citation 110-A picture

AL

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Citation 110A by "salmonfishing"
« Reply #1 on: February 02, 2017, 11:39:59 AM »
Does anyone know for certain if Citation Model 110-A reels only had gray frames or could they have possibly had a black frame? I have seen one with a black frame but wonder if it is original with the black. Thanks
« Last Edit: February 02, 2017, 11:48:03 AM by OCauto »

AL

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Re: Citation 110A Posted by "salmonfishing"
« Reply #2 on: February 02, 2017, 11:43:28 AM »
Reply by OCAUTO: Not to be picky but I cannot find a 110-A are you sure it is not a 110A?
 Also, some of the catalog pictures seem to show the foot as gray but cannot tell for sure. Spray paint can make gray black real easy.
 Today at 11:14:03 AM


« Last Edit: February 02, 2017, 11:48:34 AM by OCauto »

Huckster37

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Re: 110-A picture
« Reply #3 on: February 03, 2017, 05:59:05 PM »
Here are pictures of the only 110-A that I have. It's in rough condition, I tried to clean it up a bit before I took the pictures. Notice this one has a black frame, but that doesn't mean its original (Frankenreel). It has the beveled gears and the side plates seem to be dark purple in color. Bought it at a yard sale and have no idea if all the parts are original.
I have a 110-A box without reel, the picture on it has a gray frame.
« Last Edit: February 03, 2017, 06:06:45 PM by Huckster37 »

Huckster37

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Re: 110-A picture
« Reply #4 on: April 09, 2017, 03:57:09 PM »
I acquired another 110-A and thought I would compare them. There is a 110A & a 110-A. I don't have a 110A yet, but I have seen pictures the 110-A has the bait click and the text on the side plate is different. The main difference in the two 110-A's I have is the reel body. The one on the left has a grey textured back and foot, the one on the right has smooth black back and foot. The one on the right has made in the USA on the bottom of the foot the one on the left doesn't. If you look at the face of these two you'll notice extra slots cut into the right one. The inserts that (can't remember what it called) goes through the body that the drive shaft turns in are different also, the one on the left appears to be brass the one on the right isn't. the right one has a slot for a spool clip and a spool clip is on this reel. I looked at the schematics and this reel should not have a spool clip. Now the tiny engraving in the face, I had to get my magnifying glass out for this. The one on the left has a hollow arrow with a K in it and what may be a 1 next to it. The one on the right is the shape on Minnesota with a T on top of a C in it and far to the left the numeral 1. The one on the left has black side plates and the one on the right has dark purple side plates. I know this is a lot of useless information, but thought I would make a record of it anyway. Besides that I didn't buy these reels new so this may not even be how they came out of the factory.
« Last Edit: April 09, 2017, 04:06:26 PM by Huckster37 »

salmonfishing

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Re: 110-A picture
« Reply #5 on: April 09, 2017, 05:12:18 PM »
Dennis, you really do tear them apart which is great! I am afraid if I go that far, I will screw something up. I also have both a black and grey frame 110-A. I will look at them over the next day or so and see if they mirror what you found. I have a couple of 110A reels that are both grey frames. I might look at them as well to compare. FYI, not on a reel but I got some 110-A side plates a while back just because the color was unusual. The side with the model number appears to be purple in color also. You have to hold it just right in the light to see the purple hue. I kind of wonder if it just isn't some kind of fading of the black paint?
Chuck
« Last Edit: April 09, 2017, 05:39:47 PM by salmonfishing »

Huckster37

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Re: 110-A picture
« Reply #6 on: April 09, 2017, 07:50:38 PM »
That could be, I called it dark purple but I had to take pictures from several different angles to get the purple to show up. Just now looking at my 110B's, I have six black frames five smooth and one textured and one with a grey textured back. I've got the grey one and one of the black ones apart to clean will post pictures in a few days.

Skip Smith

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Re: 110-A picture
« Reply #7 on: April 09, 2017, 08:37:48 PM »
One thing I've noticed about the Citations with the grey crinkle-finished bodies is the "stem" between the body and the foot is shorter.  Those reels can't be attached to many rods using the "skip and screw" attachment method, because of insufficient clearance between the front cover and the reel foot.  Those grey-finished Citations can only be used on certain styles of rod.  That's why I avoid 'em.

salmonfishing

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Re: 110-A picture
« Reply #8 on: April 10, 2017, 08:31:22 AM »
Dennis, here is my "purple" colored side plate compared to a "normal" black one. It has the same hue as yours and also has that hue on the inside of it like yours. So now I am thinking instead of faded black paint, they maybe just got a bad batch of black that had this purple hue in it for some reason (due to mixing?). I can't imagine they would have intentionally used a purple color.

salmonfishing

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Re: 110-A picture
« Reply #9 on: April 10, 2017, 01:02:25 PM »
Here is to more head scratching. I broke down my grey and black frame 110-A reels to see how they compare to Dennis’. My grey frame matches Dennis’ grey frame exactly (grey textured frame etc.). However my black frame 110-A is both the same and different.  This black frame 110-A is what originally prompted my question above back in Feb. Mine does have smooth black paint and does have the extra slots. There is a reason for those slots by the way. As Johnson progressed in its manufacturing, it started putting tabs on the flat side of the  side plate that fits up against the frame. Only the side plate with the holes for inserting the mounting screws has the tab that fits into the frame slot. The reason the opposite side plate doesn't have a tab is because it has to be inserted straight into the frame because of the tubes sticking out. The reason for the slot on both sides in the frame is sometimes the mounting screws are on the crank side plate and some times they are on the name side plate. On my black frame, the screws are on the crank side plate so that is where the tab is as you can see in the picture. My black frame has the brass bushing for the drive shaft but does have the spool retaining clip. I also have two model 110A (without the dash) grey frame reels and looked at them to see if they had the retaining clip. They both do. I will post a breakdown of one of them later. Another major difference is the frame “stem” Skip refers to above. While it appears Dennis’ black fame has the longer stem, my black frame has the shorter stem matching the grey frame in length. Looking inside my black frame, rather than the Minnesota state outline, it has the arrow with a K on the inside but to the left has a large “2”. Mine does not have made in the USA stamped on the bottom and the push button is sculptured rather than flat. Finally while it looks like the gears on my black frame appear to be of a different material than on the grey, they are also straight sided rather than beveled.
« Last Edit: April 10, 2017, 02:58:10 PM by salmonfishing »

Skip Smith

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Re: 110-A picture
« Reply #10 on: April 10, 2017, 03:25:09 PM »
I've always been under the impression that the side plates on 100's and 110's were anodized, like the front cover.  Is that not the case?

salmonfishing

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Re: 110-A picture
« Reply #11 on: April 10, 2017, 03:33:28 PM »
Skip, how do you tell if they are anodized or not? I would have no idea how to know one way or the other.
Chuck

Skip Smith

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Re: 110-A picture
« Reply #12 on: April 10, 2017, 06:26:15 PM »
Chuck, we're paddling the same canoe here, buddy!  I based my assumption on the color match between the side plates and the front covers.  Of course, we're both aware of the interchangibility (sp?) of parts over the 24-year production run of those reels.  If those side plates were, in fact, painted, I'm more than willing to stand corrected and be grateful for the education!

AL

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Re: 110-A picture
« Reply #13 on: April 12, 2017, 10:25:46 PM »
All you need is an ohmmeter or a multi-meter set on the ohms scale, or even an automotive electrical conductivity tester available at your local auto parts store. Just touch the parts in any two places with the two leads, just far enough apart that they won't touch each other. A non-anodized surface will read about 0 ohms or light the test light of the conductivity tester. An anodized surface will show essentially infinite ohms, or of course will not allow the test light to light. Don't put the leads on sharp edges, or you might get a light on an anodized part. If you think there is a slight amount of anodize on a part, hold one lead on a sharp edge, and try to scratch a flat surface with the other. You can sometimes scratch through a very thin coating.

salmonfishing

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Re: 110-A picture
« Reply #14 on: April 17, 2017, 06:38:49 AM »
When cleaning an early Princess 100-A reel that I have, I noticed some pink paint on the brass tubes mounted on the handle side plate which I thought was curious. I also noticed that on the part of the drag metal plate that was under the black drag dial button, the color was pinker and not as faded as the portion exposed .  So since I have an ohmmeter, I thought I would check for anodization based on Al’s directions above on both side plates, the front cover and the numbered drag plate by checking the uncolored inside portion of all of them. In the pictures you can see on the cover, the name side plate, and the drag plate, the ohmmeter measure “ 0”. That occurred no matter where I touched on the inside of these pieces. I am not an expert on anodization so don’t know if you can anodize just one side and not the other but at least  the insides of these three pieces were not anodized. On the handle/crank side plate insides however, a different story. Even though there was no color added, anywhere I touched, I received no “0” reading suggesting it was anodized. When I tried on the edge, I did get an “0” reading which Al advises can happen on an anodized piece. So not sure why one piece was anodized and not the other  three but a fun test.

 

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